Perren Property- Peek of the Week
Renovating a property to rent – Do you
really get bargain?
So you have bought a property it’s a
complete renovation job. You think you got a good price, until you start the
renovation works and then that budget is getting more and more stretched.
Having a good plan in place will save you
time and money and all in all, worth its weight in gold.
I have found a fantastic step by step
planner from homebuilding.co.uk. This
will help you along the way to complete your renovation.
Remember if you require any help, guidance or
trusty contacts (Surveyors, town planners, tradesman) Perren Property will be
happy to help you.
I hope you enjoy this article as much as
I did.
Stay till the end and you will see a renovation project that
may just be worth a look.
Renovation: Your Step-by-step Planner
Property renovation is almost a rite of
passage for anyone hoping to climb the housing ladder but with ambitions beyond
their means. Run-down houses can represent real bargain potential and can prove
an excellent way to stretch a budget and get more home for your money.
Renovation is not without its risks,
however, and the first-time renovator can easily come unstuck, especially if
they are tempted to rush into starting work without first taking stock of the
structural condition of the property. This is especially a problem for those
living in the property during renovation work or who are planning to move in
quickly and are, therefore, keen to replace antiquated fixtures and fittings
and to redecorate. This approach can often mean having to do some or all of
this work twice, sending costs spiralling and can occasionally end up doing
more harm than good, especially if it means essential repair jobs are missed,
or worse, covered up and forgotten about.
One renovator recently redecorated and
fitted a new kitchen, bathroom and wooden flooring, only to come back soon
after completion to discover that a leak in the roof they had failed to repair
had brought the ceilings down, ruining all of the new renovation work. Another
common situation is to complete renovation work including re-plastering and
decoration, only to discover that the whole place is riddled with rising damp
and in need of an injected damp-proof course, involving hacking off all of the
new plastering up to waist height.
There is a logical order in which
renovation works should be undertaken. Stray from this progression – or
critical path as it is sometimes known – and you end up having to undo
completed work to tackle basic repairs and improvements. Preparing a plan of
attack is also a very useful way of estimating the likely cost and time
schedule of a renovation project. Where funds are restricted, it will allow
works to be prioritized without compromising the end result or wasting money.
Assess the Building’s Condition
The first stage of any renovation
project is to get a detailed assessment of the current condition of the
property. Those buying to renovate should always commission a chartered
surveyor to undertake a building report which will identify any essential
repairs needed and will recommend further investigation by specialist surveyors
into any other aspects that arouse suspicion, such as infestation, subsidence
or heave, damp or drainage problems. Those renovating their own home should
still consider commissioning a survey or getting in specialists to look into
any areas of concern. If you ask, a surveyor should also be able to indicate
the likely cost of repairs.
The building report will reveal the type
of construction used across different parts of the house. This is very
important to note, as it will affect the type and extent of any alterations
that can be made and the materials and techniques that are appropriate. Using
the wrong renovation techniques can quickly lead to extensive damage to an old building,
especially in the case of earth construction such as cob and clom, oak framing,
rubble stone walls and random slate walls.
If the building is to be remodelled or
extended it is also essential to get a measured survey of the building. A
measured survey is an exact scale drawing of the layout of the building as it
is. This will prove to be an invaluable starting point for making design
decisions and is also likely to be needed as part of any planning applications.
You can find a surveyor via the Royal
Institute of Chartered Surveyors (www.rics.org).
Stop Further Decay
Any building left empty for more than a
few months will start to deteriorate. This may begin with minor dilapidation
but if damp gets inside the building through broken windows or slipped tiles,
the rate of decay will accelerate rapidly. Climbing plants will quickly grow
into the tiniest crack in walls or window frames and will invade, potentially
letting in damp. Once damp gets into a building, infestation by pests and
fungal attack will soon follow. All of the common problems that destroy
buildings: wet and dry rot, woodworm and deathwatch beetle, thrive in a damp,
mild environment, especially in timber. An empty property is also a target for
a far more rapid form of decay: vandalism and theft by trespassers. This
usually starts with children breaking windows for fun, but obvious neglect soon
invites far more destructive invaders, as well as letting in the elements.
The work required to protect a building
will usually be to secure the site and buildings to prevent trespass, and if at
all possible, to make the building weather tight. Windows and doors can be
boarded up either with sheets of ply, or in more susceptible areas, by using
metal shutters that can be rented. If the roof is missing or damaged, it may be
covered in waterproof sheets, or in some instances an entirely enclosed
scaffold, although the latter is an expensive option. It is also necessary to
take out adequate buildings and public liability insurance cover to protect
against accidental damage through fire, storm or flood etc, or legal action
from a trespasser who suffers injury.
Check for Any Grants or Tax Concessions
They are few and far between, but there
are grants available in some instances for restoration and home improvement
work, either at a local level via local councils or at national level from
Central Government via National Heritage. There are also VAT concessions: zero
rating on ‘approved alterations’ to listed buildings; zero rating on
conversions, including dwellings empty for ten years or more; a reduced rate of
5% for dwellings empty for three years or more; a reduced rate of 5% for
projects where there is a change in the number of dwelling units and a reduced
rate on some measures that improve energy efficiency (www.est.org.uk). It is essential to apply for
grants before starting any work to avoid disqualification.
Apply for Consents
At the earliest possible stage you
should identify which aspects of your proposed renovation project require
statutory consent. You need to know whether or not the work requires planning
permission, building regulations approval and in the case of listed buildings,
listed building consent. Sometimes applications can take several months and
this may influence your decision on which works to undertake.
If you want to start work immediately,
it will be best to take on projects that do not require planning consent, e.g.
converting an existing garage or roof space or making additions that fall
within the allowances made under Permitted Development Rights. Even works that
require building regulations approval can be started following 24 hours’ notice
of the intention to comply, made to the local authority building control
department.
If you do require statutory consents for
all or part of your proposed works, then you must build into your schedule the
time required for the local authority to determine the application. Planning
decisions are supposed to take eight weeks and a full building regulations
application five to six weeks.
If you are building near the boundary
you should also check whether or not your work is affected by the Party Wall
Act. It is also wise to get your solicitor to check your title deeds or lease,
for any restrictions to development of the property.
Stabilise the Structure
With the building’s condition stabilised
and all consents in place it is time to start work on site. It may be necessary
to make sure that there is a supply of water – if there was one it may have
been disconnected – and electricity for power tools, possibly using a temporary
meter box depending upon the condition of any existing wiring.
The next task is to undertake any work
identified in the survey as being required to ensure that the building is
structurally stable. This might mean underpinning, or piling work to improve or
stabilise any existing foundations, steel ties to stop lateral spread in walls
or a roof, or the insertion or steel props, beams or scaffold to prevent further
collapse.
Demolition and Clearance/Salvage
Once the structure is stable, it is time
to undertake any demolition work that is required and to strip the building
back to the part that is to be kept. Waste can be removed by skips, or private
individuals can get rid of waste for free at local authority tips — providing
you can convince the tip manager that you are not in the trade!
Anything that can be salvaged and reused
should be removed and stored somewhere safe, or sold on to a salvage yard if
not required for the project. If demolition works are extensive, it might be
possible to sell the salvage rights in which case some of the removal work may
be undertaken by the reclamation yard — saving time and effort and potentially
raising some cash, too.
Solving Damp
Any building more than 80 years old is
likely to have solid walls (as opposed to modern cavity walls) either of brick,
stone, oak frame, earth or even chalk. Such buildings often suffer from damp
problems, although in many cases the problems are the result of modern
alterations or ‘improvements’ such as replacing lime with cement in pointing or
render, painting using modern impermeable products, replacing suspended timber
floors with concrete, reducing ventilation and changing external ground levels
against the building.
Although there is no building
regulations requirement to upgrade damp-proofing in existing houses being
renovated, lenders will often insist on damp treatment and conversions will
have to be upgraded under the regulations. A great deal of damage can be done
by using inappropriate modern materials — for instance an injected silicone
damp-proof course can solve rising damp in soft brick walls and some porous
stone, but can destroy earth walls, and would prove a waste of money on a rubble
stone wall. If there are signs of rising damp in an older building, get at
least two expert independent opinions, first to ensure that it really is rising
damp – there should be signs of hygroscopic salts – and to find a suitable
solution. Often the problem can be solved using non-invasive methods such as
improving ground drainage around the property, lowering the external ground
level, improving ventilation and even just getting the heating back on.
Damp is often caused from condensation
within a building. The solution is to improve ventilation, and to ensure that
the building can breathe by reinstating lime in place of impermeable cement in
plaster, mortar and render.
Penetrating damp problems in walls and
ceilings can usually be resolved by repairing the building’s fabric, such as
repointing brickwork with lime mortar, repairing lime render or missing hung
tiles, fixing the roof, and repairing lead flashings and valleys, guttering and
doors and windows.
The principle is to avoid invasive
solutions that will damage the building’s fabric and to replace like with like
wherever possible and practical. It may require the reversal of botched modern
remedies to solve an old building’s problems.
This is also the stage to treat the
building if there are signs of infestation. Many conservationists do not like
spraying chemicals in buildings to treat rot and woodworm, as these problems
should resolve themselves in a few months once damp problems are fixed and the
building is heated. However, not everyone is willing to wait or take any risks,
and lenders often insist on chemical treatments as a condition of their loan.
The answer is to take a pragmatic approach.
Check Drains/Service Connections
At this stage it is a good idea to check
that the existing drains are in working order. Find the inspection chambers
(manholes) and get someone to pour different colour food dye down the loos and
sinks to find out what is connected to where and whether any drains have
collapsed and need digging up. If you are extending, you may have to relocate
drains anyway and now is the time to find out. If there is no mains drainage
connection, it is also a good idea to inspect the condition of any existing
septic tank and soakaways.
Plan Access/Site Layout
Where a site has restricted access it is
a good idea to plan ahead and get any large items or machinery in for
landscaping, before access is further obstructed by new building work and
stored materials.
Major Structural Work and Extensions
Any major building work can now take
place as the existing building is stable and there is no danger of concealing
problems or having to undo work to get to the original building. All new work
must comply with the Building Regulations. As of January 2006, new building
regulations applications for extensions will also have to include proposals to
upgrade the thermal performance of the existing part of the house.
Measures should be taken to protect any
parts of the existing building that could be vulnerable to damage during the
main construction stage of the project, especially in listed buildings.
Fit Doors and Windows and Make Weather Tight
Once the roof structure is complete and
felted and battened, the structure should be made weather tight to keep out the
elements and to secure the building. If any new parts of the roof intersect
with the old, it is always preferable to match the existing/original roof
covering either by buying reclaimed tiles/slates or by replacing one plane of
the roof at the back and using the salvaged tiles/slates at the front.
Whilst the scaffold is up it is a good
idea to check that any chimney stacks and pots are stable and clear, to put on
bird guards, and to repair lead flashings around the chimneys, in valleys, on
hips, dormers and any abutments.
Doors and windows can also now be
installed and glazed. Where doors and windows are not yet on site, the openings
should be covered in plastic sheets or even better — boarded up.
All new and replacement windows are more
or less obliged by the Building Regulations to be double glazed, unless the
building is listed, in a Conservation Area, or of great character. Building
control has the right of discretion.
Fix Gutters Downpipes/ Decorate Exterior
Before the scaffold comes down it is
time to replace, repair and fix all guttering, and to fix brackets for the
downpipes. It is also an opportunity to undertake any external decoration or
staining of external joinery such as fascias and soffits, barge boards and
windows, render and timber siding.
Drainage/Landscaping, External Works
Once the scaffold is down, it is time to
connect up the external drains to the sewer or septic tank. Some prefer to
undertake this work at the groundworks stage, but this leaves the drains
vulnerable to damage during building work — especially if they are exposed in the
trenches around the building before backfilling.
Landscaping work to form the drive,
paths, beds and lawns can be undertaken at almost any point in the project,
providing it can be protected from damage by the building work. Most people
wait until they are ready to move in. Do not lay the final drive finish until
all heavy vehicles and skips have finally left site.
First Fix
With the building all but complete
externally, it is time to focus on work inside. This can start as soon as the
roof is covered. Start to build carcassing for any internal stud walls, add
flooring grade chipboard or floorboards to joists, fix ceiling joists where
required, build in door linings ready for the plasterers to work to (these are
added later for dry-lining), window reveals and cills. It is also common to fit
any new staircases at the first fix stage, prior to plastering. Once the first
fix carpentry is complete, any new first fix wiring and plumbing work can be
undertaken, including soil pipes and drainage connections. Don’t forget to get
any large items such as the hot water cylinder into the attic whilst there is
still access. At this stage everything that will later be concealed by plaster
needs to be installed, such as ventilation ducts, extract ducts, wiring for central
heating controls, alarms, speakers or any other home automation equipment.
In an older property it is a good idea
to consider rewiring the entire property and to budget for this, as the
Building Regulations now require all wiring to meet the current regulations and
electricians will insist on this in order to be able to certify their work.
Plastering Out/Screed Floors
With first fix complete it is time to
re-plaster, apply plasterboard/dry-lining to ceilings and any stud walls
(tacking), and to repair any damaged plasterwork/mouldings. In an older
building, avoid using modern metal angle beads around arises, unless you want
crisp clean lines: instead use timber beads. Make sure you protect the stairs
and any other vulnerable features while the plasterers are in, as it can get
everywhere.
Any new floor screeds for the ground
floor will be laid at this point, usually after plastering to help keep it
clean, but some like to screed and then plaster second to create a neat joint
between plaster and floor. If you are laying underfloor heating, the pipes or
cable elements will usually be laid after plastering, so that the manifolds can
be fixed in place, but before screeding so that the pipes and elements are
covered.
Leave the Building to Dry Out
Before bringing in any timber products,
the plaster and any new screed needs to be allowed to thoroughly dry out.
Depending on the time of year this will take from two to six weeks — the longer
it can be left, the less the danger of moisture causing problems with second
fix joinery and especially wooden floors. If time is of the essence, go for
drylining instead of hard plaster and for suspended timber floors instead of
concrete.
Lay Fixed Flooring
Opinions differ on whether to lay fixed
flooring such as flagstones, ceramic tiles and solid wooden floors before
kitchen and other fitted furniture and sanitaryware. H&R’s view is that it
is best to lay the floors from edge to edge of each room and to fix kitchen
units, fitted furniture and sanitaryware on top as it avoids many problems
later and leaves flexibility for the future. This sort of flooring will
certainly need to be laid before skirting and architrave can be fixed in place,
as it will need to run underneath.
Second Fix
Time to connect the consumer unit and
fit all light fittings, sockets, switches, phone and TV points and the
extractor hood. Hang all doors and fix skirting, architrave, spindles and
handrails. Install the bathroom fittings and connect the taps. Install the
boiler and controls, and fit radiators. Fit the kitchen and complete any fitted
furniture. Box in any pipes or soil stacks ready for the decorators. It is also
time for the plumber and electrician to commission the heating system.
Decorating/Tiling/Wooden Floors/Carpets
With the second fix complete, it is time
to prepare all of the surfaces for decorating by sanding and filling. Painting
and staining should only begin once all second fix work and preparation is
complete to ensure the building is clean and dust free — otherwise it will be
impossible to get a good finish. If time is of the essence, start at the top of
the building and work down, with the decorators following behind the other
trades as they complete each floor. It is also time to get the tiling done in
the kitchen and bathrooms, having left space for this behind sinks. Depending
on design, any shower enclosures and doors can be fitted once tiling is
complete. Finally, once decorating is complete, any soft floor coverings, such
as vinyl and carpet can be laid and the white goods such as the oven, hob,
fridge and washing machine can be fitted.
Final Clean/Move in
The building is ready to move into, but
before doing so it is a good idea to have a final clean throughout. This is to
remove any stray plaster, dust, materials and packaging, to remove protective
coverings and to get the windows really clean. It is also time to fix curtains
and blinds.
Snagging
Small problems will inevitably crop up
with the work over the ensuing months. Fix these problems as they arise, or, if
you used tradesmen, ask them back, although expect to have to pay them for
defects that are not their fault, such as plaster cracks. If you used a main
contractor, you may have held back a retention of 2.5-5% on the final payment.
This sum is released once they have returned and resolved any defects.
Not quite a bargain but if your looking to create your ‘Forever Home’
this could be worth a look… http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/property-34704084.html?premiumA=true
Remember if you need any help or advice I would love to chat just give me
a call … 07794 056 668
or email charlotte@perrenproperty.co.uk
